
The cruise liner
Costa Mediterranea makes its careful way down the Canale della Giudecca in Venice. Love 'em or loathe 'em, cruise liners are bigger and better and the business is booming. The
Freedom of the Seas, launched in April 2006, weighs 160,000 tons and carries 4,375 passengers. Size might matter for many things, but design is also important in providing what the customers want - luxury, entertainment or private space viewing the sea. At the other end of the scale the part-sailing, part engine-powered
Wind Star is only 5,300 tons and takes 150 people on something like an old-style clipper ship.
The cruise ship pictured looks like a gross intrusion on Venice's incomparable architecture, but the city only exists because it has always been a maritime hub. In 1574, Henry III of France popped in for dinner and the city's
arsenolotti knocked out a complete galley from keel-laying to launching in the time it took him to eat. The huge modern cruise ship terminal is one of the world's busiest. While Venice's population is declining fast the importance of the trade done there is very high. Of course the city's water-borne icon is the gondola, closely followed (and overtaken at speed) by the vaporetto, the motoscafo and the motonave, diesel-powered water buses serving the city and islands of the surrounding lagoon.
Touring by cruising is increasingly popular as the ships become more like little cities, with huge restaurants, theatres, cinemas, swimming pools and shops in addition to the privacy of the cabins and state rooms. The simplicity of seeing the world from the safe world of the ship while all your needs are met is only one attraction. You are more likely to get to know people when you share the space of the ship with them for a week or two. It's likely they share your interests and outlook on life, and there are opportunities for building up friendships. The hawkers, beggars and pickpockets who operate within a ordinary city are not around.
The detractors say it isn't really touring, just staying in a resort that happens to move around a bit. They might say that one bit of open sea is just the same as the next, and the trips ashore, if taken at all, are nearly as insulated from the real world as the ship is. Being loaded onto a coach and taken to some carefully-chosen market place or tourist entertainment is no way to interact with local places and people. Both the ship and the coach are steel cocoons where the textures, sounds and sights of the real world are kept at a safely controlled distance.
On the other hand, as every other traveller has found over the centuries, you've got to start somewhere.